„Hen. Na północy Norwegii” – spotkania na krańcach świata

Po książce „Białe. Zimna wyspa Spitsbergen” Ilona Wiśniewska kontynuuje swoją podróż po lodowatym i wyludnionym krańcu Norwegii. Tym razem opisuje Finnmark, najbardziej wysunięty na północ region kontynentalnej Europy. To miejsce, gdzie jest osiem pór roku, słońce nie zachodzi lub nie wschodzi przez wiele dni, mieszkańcy korzystają z usług szamana, podobno też znajduje się tu prawdziwe i jedyne na świecie wejście do piekła.

Przez dużą część reportażu głównym jego bohaterem jest Ibert Amundsen, były woźnica u kresu życia, który „siedzi z widokiem na murowaną ścianę i wybiela przeszłość, w kółko wracając do tych samych historii”. Wiśniewska wyciąga z niego kolejne wspomnienia, a przy okazji przez jego pryzmat opisuje losy Finnmarku, który podobnie jak Amundsen, umiera na naszych oczach. Bo choć Skandynawia kojarzy się współcześnie z dobrobytem, ładem i spokojem, to opisywana przez autorkę kraina odległa jest od tych idyllicznych wizji. Problemy są tu takie jak wszędzie, a z powodu położenia geograficznego i surowego klimatu, jeszcze bardziej dają się we znaki. Region, w czasie II wojny światowej zrujnowany przez wycofujących się Niemców, dziś znów jest zagrożony. Kolejne tutejsze wioski i miasteczka wyludniają się i znikają z map wskutek migracji młodszych pokoleń, które od łowienia ryb i usuwania śniegu łopatą wolą robienie kariery w Oslo. Opuszczone domy zarastają rośliny lub pochłania je morze, zamykane są urzędy pracy, bo nie ma żadnych ofert zatrudnienia w okolicy, a w powietrzu unoszą się zanieczyszczenia z fabryk i kopalń sąsiedniej Rosji. Mieszkańcy, którzy pozostali, to ludzie pogodzeni z losem i kaprysami natury, mimowolnie ratujący resztki kultury starego świata.

W zalewie reportaży ze wszystkich możliwych miejsc świata, książka Wiśniewskiej wyróżnia się nie tylko dogłębną znajomością opisywanego miejsca, empatycznym spojrzeniem i odkrywaniem białych plam lokalnej historii, lecz także barwnym językiem, pełnym błyskotliwych fraz, okraszonych humorem. Autorka nie poprzestaje na suchym opisie i przytaczaniu wypowiedzi rozmówców, w czym lubuje się wielu reporterów uważających, że dobry temat obroni się sam. Wiśniewska wpisuje się w chwalebną tradycję polskiego reportażu literackiego, odkrywając dla nas miejsce tajemnicze i groźne, a zarazem fascynujące.


„Hen. Na północy Norwegii”

Ilona Wiśniewska
Czarne

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