Moda – Natalia Kopiszka

Wszystko przez kucyki
Jesteś już całkiem duży, a nadal bawisz się My Little Pony? Nie martw się, jeszcze może wyniknąć z tego coś dobrego. Tak jak w przypadku Natalii Kopiszki, świeżo upieczonej projektantki mody, która pod wpływem fascynacji małymi konikami oraz sentymentów z dzieciństwa stworzyła kolekcję dyplomową. Z sukcesem.

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Swoje zainteresowanie modą Natalia Kopiszka ujawniła bardzo wcześnie. Przynajmniej tak wynika z opowieści jej mamy, która widząc swoją wówczas 5-letnią córkę rysującą coś z zaangażowaniem, zapytała, co robi, i uzyskała zaskakującą odpowiedź: „Projektuję materiał”. Ale zanim Natalia zaczęła projektować na poważnie, musiało upłynąć sporo czasu. Najpierw skończyła architekturę krajobrazu w Krakowie. To jednak nie było do końca to. Coś jej podpowiadało, żeby pójść w kierunku mody. Przynajmniej spróbować. Pojawił się pomysł przeprowadzki do Warszawy i podjęcia nauki w Międzynarodowej Szkole Kostiumografii i Projektowania Ubioru (MSKPU). W marcu tego roku Kopiszka obroniła dyplom. Jej kolekcja „Kopi” znalazła się wśród najlepszych i została nagrodzona pokazem. Doceniła ją także rada programowa FashionPhilosophy Fashion Week Poland. Projektantka dostała możliwość pokazania swojej linii ubrań szerszej publiczności podczas 12. edycji imprezy.

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Cukierkowe kolory, pokaźnych rozmiarów cekiny mieniące się w świetle i kolorowe nadruki, których głównymi bohaterami były swawolne kucyki – czyli wszystko to, co małe dziewczynki lubią najbardziej. Projektantka, pracując nad kolekcją, myślami przeniosła się do swojego dzieciństwa. – Chciałam zrobić coś, co jest najbliższe memu sercu, nawiązać do mody, która mnie otaczała, kiedy byłam mała. Miałam fioła na punkcie My Little Pony, musiałam przemycić ten motyw – mówi. Ponieważ Natalia dorastała w latach 90., w kolekcji pojawiło się także wiele charakterystycznych dla tamtej epoki rozwiązań, jak choćby formy XXL i pstrokacizna. – Wygrzebałam nagranie z moich drugich urodzin – jeszcze na starej kasecie wideo – z roku 91. A tam – ciocie i babcie wystrojone w kolorowe outfity, koszule oversize i duże kolczyki – wspomina.

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Na szczęście projekty Kopiszki nie są wiernym odzwierciedleniem strojów z tamtej dekady. Choć czerpią z kiczu, bronią się za sprawą nowoczesnych, prostych fasonów i sprawnie poprowadzonych cięć. W kolekcji dominują płaszcze, koszule z małymi kołnierzykami, marynarki z kieszonką, z której wystaje poszetka, spodnie z kantem – rzeczy, które z beztroską mają już niewiele wspólnego, bo bliższe są osobom przestrzegającym biurowego dress code’u. Czy to odniesienie do japońskiego kultu pracy? Nawiązań do Kraju Kwitnącej Wiśni jest więcej – ubrania ozdobione licznymi zakładkami i plisami przypominają dzieła origami, printy są odniesieniem do tradycji barwienia ubrań. Te ostatnie to efekt współpracy z graficzką, Magdą Grabowską. To właśnie ona ręcznie namalowała wzór, zanim został przeniesiony na tkaninę.

Natalia najbardziej cieszy się z tego, że udało się w pełni urzeczywistnić to, co wcześniej naszkicowała na papierze. Kiedy studiowała architekturę krajobrazu, nie zawsze tak było, bo efekt końcowy zależał od wielu czynników. Teraz ma pełną kontrolę nad procesem. – A jeśli komuś to, co robię, się podoba – super! Fajne jest to, że ktoś rozumie mój świat – mówi. – Moda w Polsce jest szarobura. Ja poszłam zupełnie w inną stronę. Jestem zdziwiona, że się tak pozytywnie przyjęło – dodaje.

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