Moda na film, czyli ranking najciekawszych dokumentów o geniuszu mody

Ubrania, pokazy mody, czerwony dywan? Tak, owszem, ale to ułamek, bo moda to coś więcej. To emocje. To estetyka. To ludzie. Prawdziwe historie, które na swój charakterystyczny sposób wpływają na miliony. Zobacz 5 odmiennych filmów, które tętnią energią, talentem, wizją i człowiekiem. Przede wszystkim człowiekiem.

Szaleństwo i artyzm. Skrupulatność i ciężka praca. Charakter i realizm. Im bardziej zagłębiasz się w zagmatwany świat mody, tym więcej dostrzegasz i zaczynasz rozumieć, że nie o ściankę i błysk fleszy chodzi. Moda to wiele skrajnych emocji. To także ludzie i ich jedyne w swoim rodzaju historie. Dlatego prawdziwa moda to prawdziwy geniusz, który koegzystuje i przenika się wzajemnie z kulturą, sztuką, filmem. W ten sposób powstaje wzajemna inspiracja, która tworzy niebywałą wręcz artystyczną fuzję. Jak?

Diana Vreeland The Eye has to travel
reż. Lisa Immordino Vreeland, 2011

„Daj ludziom nie to, czego chcą, ale to, czego jeszcze nie wiedzą, że chcą”. Postać wybitna, wizjonerka, królowa. Tak można w skrócie powiedzieć o redaktorce Dianie Vreeland. Przez dziesiątki lat zaszczepiała swoje innowacyjne pomysły w „Harper’s Bazaar” i „Vogue’u”. Była nieprzejednana, uparta i zaskakująca. Dostrzegała w modzie znacznie więcej niż same ubrania, w których i tak na przestrzeni lat, można było zauważyć postępującą rewolucję obyczajową. Ostatni etap swego modowego mecenatu to nowojorski Metropolitan Museum of Art, gdzie dzięki niej zaczęto prezentować wystawy dotyczące projektantów i ich twórczego dorobku.

Bill Cunningham New York
reż. Richard Press, 2010

Nie ma drugiego takiego jak Bill. Anna Wintour twierdzi, że wszyscy ubierali się dla niego. To ikona. Fotograf, który wszystko wie i pamięta każdy pokaz, każde powtórzenie w modzie. Jest strasznie drobiazgowy i oddany swojej pracy. Jego życie, to misja. Choć bywa ekscentrycznym samotnikiem, to przede wszystkim jest błyskotliwy, pogodny i niczym się nie przejmuje. Przez wiele dekad fotografował życie nowojorskiej socjety i modę uliczną, która była dla niego niezwykle istotna. Jego nieodłączne atrybuty to aparat fotograficzny i rower. One służyły mu zawsze i wszędzie. Wybuchowa dawka pozytywnej energii!

Dior and I
reż. Frederic Tcheng, 2014

Raf Simson. Belg, minimalista, modowy technolog. Dla wielu powołanie go na dyrektora artystycznego domu mody Dior było poważnym zaskoczeniem. Niezwykle realistyczna historia, ukazująca jak w osiem tygodni można przygotować kolekcję haute couture. Kolekcję i debiut, który miał być swoistym boomem i dowodem na słuszność tej decyzji zawodowej. Niecierpliwy, nielubiący uzewnętrznień, zdecydowany introwertyk, dla którego świat mody wysokiej był czymś zupełnie nowym. Ale udało się. Zdynamizował ją, stosując nowoczesne techniki w swojej pierwszej kolekcji Diora.

Valentino the Last Emperor
reż. Matt Tyrnauer, 2008

„I love beauty, it’s not my fault”, mawiał kreator. Pierwsze skojarzenie? Tak, czerwona suknia. Dokument ten to historia przekrojowa, ukazuje osobowość czy też po prostu świat Valentino. To opowieść o człowieku, dla którego trzeba mieć wiele cierpliwości. Opowieść o jego odczuciach i inspiracjach. W końcu to także intymne podsumowanie kariery włoskiego designera oraz relacji partnerskiej i biznesowej (bodajże najdłuższej w historii świata mody) z Giancarlo Giamettim. Bo Valentino to po prostu światowa legenda glamour.

Political Dress
reż. Judyta Fibiger, 2011

Jest i akcent polski. Film, o którym nie było głośno, a jednak warto o nim wspomnieć. Jerzy Antkowiak, Barbara Hoff, Tadeusz Rolke, Barbara Hulanicki to postaci ważne dla okresu polskiej mody w czasach PRL-u. To spojrzenie na ubranie jako deklarację i wspomnienia, które pamięta wielu starszych Polaków. To moda w czasach propagandy, inspiracja szaleństwem dzieci-kwiatów i wreszcie epoki punka. To zabawne perypetie radzenia sobie w ciężkich czasach, gdy rozwinęła się pomysłowa „moda podziemna”. W dokumencie motywem współczesnym jest szycie sukienki, tytułowej „Political Dress”,
przez Anię Kuczyńską.

Zobacz także:

5 polskich filmów, na które warto czekać

Już dawno minęły czasy, gdy na polskim filmie wszystko bolało – z zażenowania, a nie z emocji. Co prawda nasze komedie nadal bardziej straszą niż bawią, ale z innymi gatunkami jest całkiem nieźle. Jesienny repertuar będzie obfitował w interesujące polskie tytuły. Czytaj więcej>>

Przodem do Wisły – mapa warszawskich miejscówek nad Wisłą

Które to, na miłość boską, są Hocki Klocki, który Kurort, a który Sezon?! Przyznamy się, że do niedawna my też nie znaliśmy odpowiedzi na wszystkie te pytania. Zdarzało nam się pić piwo w oczekiwaniu na znajomych, którzy w tym samym czasie w oczekiwaniu na nas pili piwo w zupełnie innym miejscu. Ale koniec z tym. Przygotowaliśmy dla was (ale także i dla siebie) ilustrowany przewodnik po warszawskiej Wiśle. Czytaj więcej>>

7 najciekawszych koncertów na jesieni

7 koncertów w listopadzie i grudniu, na które powinieneś już zacząć zbierać pieniądze. Czytaj więcej>>

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