Czas rozkwitania, czyli polska zima na trzech talerzach

Foto: Maria Medyńska

Śnieg zadebiutował w tym roku wcześnie, ale prawdziwa zima dopiero powoli się zaczyna. Jeśli zazwyczaj myślisz o niej jako o okresie uśpienia, nieurodzaju, który trzeba jakoś przetrzymać, nie jesteś odosobniony. Ale jeśli się trochę rozejrzysz, to zauważysz, że zima jest bardzo atrakcyjnym czasem dla polskiej kuchni.

Ogromna część tego, co mamy najlepsze, jest teraz dostępna, a charakter polskich potraw idealnie odpowiada potrzebom budzonym w człowieku przez chłód, wiatr i niedobory słońca. Odkrycie tej zależności rzuca na zimę nowe światło, przez co przestaje ona być tylko długim czasem oczekiwania na wiosenne nowalijki.

Czy zapytany o klasyki na polskim stole też w pierwszej kolejności myślisz o pierogach, ziemniakach, mięsach i surówkach? Wielu się na nich wychowało i do dziś odnajduje w tych smakach kojące działanie. Ale może warto poszerzyć przytulną strefę komfortu i poznać polską kuchnię świeższej daty? Nie trzeba sięgać po wymyślne surowce – najlepiej tworzy się ją z bardzo tradycyjnych składników. Wystarczy zapewnić im lekko urozmaicony przyodziewek.

Sięgnij więc po ukiszone latem ogórki, po olej wytłoczony z nasion rzepaku, suszoną fasolę, zioła i owoce jałowca. Po pękate cebule i ostatnie jesienne dynie i renety, przechowywane w chłodnej piwnicy. Spójrz na nie przez pryzmat zimowy, a do towarzystwa zapewnij im całoroczne skarby. Masło mamy w końcu na wagę złota, orzechy w łupinach nie tracą świeżości, a chleb smakuje jeszcze lepiej po niespiesznym wyrastaniu w obniżonej temperaturze. Jedzenie, które jest ci bliskie, zmieni się nie do poznania za sprawą jednego czynnika – zimy.

Foto: Maria Medyńska

1. Wolno gotowana biała fasola z olejem rzepakowym

300 g suszonej białej fasoli, np. Piękny Jaś, 1 biała cebula, 3 ząbki czosnku, 2 listki laurowe, kilka gałązek ulubionych ziół, np. tymianku i majeranku, 80 g orzechów laskowych, 5 łyżek nierafinowanego oleju rzepakowego, sól i pieprz do smaku, 200 g koziego sera pleśniowego, świeże listki melisy

W dniu poprzedzającym gotowanie (najlepiej wieczorem) zalej fasolę dużą ilością wody w temperaturze pokojowej i zostaw na około 10 godzin. Po tym czasie odcedź i przepłucz, a następnie umieść w garnku ze świeżą wodą, obraną i przepołowioną cebulą, zgniecionymi ząbkami czosnku, listkami laurowymi i ziołami. Podgrzewaj na średnim ogniu i gotuj pod przykryciem około 40 minut, aż fasola będzie miękka. Zostaw do wystudzenia pod przykryciem. W międzyczasie rozgrzej piekarnik do temperatury 180 °C.

Wysyp na blachę orzechy laskowe i praż przez około 10-12 minut, aż zaczną pachnieć. Natychmiast po wyjęciu z piekarnika przełóż je na czystą ściereczkę kuchenną, szczelnie ją zwiń i porządnie wytarmoś – usuniesz w ten sposób spieczone skórki. Obrane orzechy posiekaj na mniejsze kawałki. Przełóż wystudzoną fasolę do dużej miski. Odmierz kilka łyżek wody z gotowania i wymieszaj ją z olejem rzepakowym. Powstałą emulsję wlej do miski z fasolą, dokładnie wymieszaj i dopraw solą i pieprzem. Dodaj porwany na kawałki ser kozi, uprażone orzechy i świeżą melisę.

2. Pieczona dynia z kwitnącą czerwoną cebulą

1 mała dynia piżmowa lub melonowa (taka, którą łatwo pokroić na okrągłe plastry), 2-3 łyżki oliwy, sól i pieprz, 4 czerwone cebule jednakowej wielkości, ¼ szklanki oliwy, ¼ szklanki octu balsamicznego, 1 płaska łyżka cukru trzcinowego, spora szczypta soli

Umyj dynię i bez obierania pokrój ją na krążki o grubości około 1,5 cm. Rozłóż na blasze, posmaruj oliwą, oprósz solą i pieprzem. Piecz w temperaturze 200°C przez 30 minut, aż będą miękkie i przyrumienione.

W międzyczasie obierz cebule i odkrój ich końcówki – przy dolnej uważaj, żeby nie na-ruszyć trzymającej się razem struktury (odetnij tylko tyle, by cebule stały prosto). Każdą z nich natnij od góry pionowo w połowie, ale nie do samego końca, by cebula nadal trzy-mała kształt. Następnie powtarzaj czynność, aż otrzymasz ósemki. W dużej, głębokiej misce wymieszaj wszystkie składniki marynaty (oliwę, ocet, cukier i sól), umieść w niej cebule i dokładnie wymieszaj dłonią – tak, by równomiernie się pokryły. Przełóż je do żaroodpornego naczynia i oblej pozostałą w misce marynatą. Przykryj folią aluminiową i piecz w temperaturze 180°C około 30 minut, następnie zdejmij folię i piecz jeszcze około 10 minut, aż cebule się przyrumienią.

Foto: Maria Medyńska

3. Masło jałowcowe z jabłkiem, koperkiem i wędzoną solą

1 małe, twarde jabłko (najlepiej szara reneta), 200 g + 50 g masła w temperaturze pokojowej, płaska łyżka suszonych owoców jałowca, ¼ szklanki drobno posiekanego koperku, duża szczypta wędzonej soli, ogórki kiszone do podania

Jabłko obierz i pokrój w drobną kostkę. Rozgrzej na patelni 50 g masła i dodaj posiekane jabłko oraz owoce jałowca. Duś pod przykryciem przez około 15 minut na małym ogniu, aż kawałki jabłka staną się miękkie, słodkie i lekko złote, a jałowiec uwolni swój aromat. Zdejmij z ognia i odstaw do całkowitego wystudzenia. W dużej misce roztrzep szpatułką lub drewnianą łyżką pozostałe 200 g miękkiego masła. Dodaj posiekany koperek, szczyptę wędzonej soli oraz ostudzoną zawartość patelni (razem z jałowcem, który będzie dalej oddawał aromat – uważaj jednak, żeby go nie zjeść!). Wszystko dokładnie wymieszaj i podawaj w temperaturze pokojowej (schłodzone masło ciężko się rozsmarowuje) z pajdami chleba na zakwasie i kiszonymi ogórkami.

Tekst i zdjęcia: Maria Medyńska

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